![]() ![]() I just happen to have a few pounds of 3/16" stainless rivets on hand from boat work, where they offer good results with aluminum in a salt water environment. I suppose plain steel rivets could be used in place of stainless - they are certainly cheaper. When joining panels, it is proper to cut out the rusted material and join good metal to good metal, same as for welding. I was talking about stainless rivets joining mild steel panels, but I take your point. It can't possibly last as long as the factory spot welds. The rivets open up more chance of leakage and corrosion as you have opened more surface area to water penetration with every hole drilled, regardless of sealant used or not. You cannot get all impurities out of 20+ year old metal, especially since it has corroded.Įven if you get it as clean as possible, you are combining un-like metals when you rivet instead of weld. You are talking stainless on dirty steel riveting. The skid plate will stay off until I get a new nutserts and bolts (Grade 8) and until I re-fill the tranny with fluid and ensure there are no leaks.Īs I've mentioned before, this Jeep has no rust on the body or the frame.Since spot welding is used for assembly of unibodies at the factory and rivets are essentially the same principle (only stronger), the rivets should last as long as the spot welds.I would respectfully disagree. In the meantime, I dropped the transmission oil pan, drained all the fluid, replaced the filter and o-ring that holds it in place, and used Permatex and a gasket (after a thorough cleaning) to re-mount the oil pan. ![]() I'm guessing they will rattle until I figure out how to get them out. The good news is the skid plate is off (see pics below) but the remainder of the nutsert and the bolt are trapped in the frame. In the end, I pulled out the Dremel cutting wheel again and cut off the bolt head. I went out to the Jeep today, quickly tried all of the suggestions I'd received (pry it down while loosening the bolt, use the impact wrench to tighten it, then try loosening it, etc.). ![]() I had already used PB Blaster on the bolts on the transmission skid to the transfer case skid, but hadn't sprayed the two cross member bolts.ġ) How do I get the two cross member bolts out?Ģ) If this happens with the body bolts, what to do? Hopefully, this doesn't happen, but I'd like to be prepared.Īs a former boss of mine used to say "when faced with eating a turd, better to do it one big gulp than lick it all day long". The skid plates and frame are still painted black from the factory, where there is rust, it is only very mild surface rust that is easily removed. The underside of my Jeep is virtually rust free. This does not bode well for my planned body lift and needing to remove all the body bolts. I don't see a good way to get to the captive nut since its obviously inside the frame. You guessed it, the captive nut apparently broke loose, therefore my hopes of getting to the transmission were dashed. I used the wrench to break it free, only to find that no matter how many times I turned it, the bolt was not coming out. I then pulled up my 1/2 socket wrench with 18mm socket to remove the two cross member bolts (one on each side) I decided not to use my impact wrench since I've heard of folks breaking the bolts. ![]() I got the speedometer o-ring dealt with in ten minutes, fifteen if you include de-greasing the bolt, clamp, and sensor. I was going to replace the speedometer o-ring to stop a leak there (flattened old o-ring), drop the transmission skid plate, drain the transmission, replace the filter and filter o-ring, re-fill the transmission and plan out my coolant lines to go the B&M tranny cooler that I acquired. ![]()
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